A frozen car park, an icy resort path, a morning walk to the lifts — the moment ordinary shoes meet compacted ice is the moment most winter slips happen. Ice grips for shoes (also called micro-spikes, shoe crampons or anti-slip shoe covers) are a cheap, pocket-sized fix: a rubber or silicone harness with steel spikes underneath that you pull over your existing shoes or boots. They turn any footwear into something that bites into ice, and they cost less than a single day's ski locker rental.

This guide explains what ice grips actually are, how 10-tooth and 12-tooth models differ, which type of harness lasts longest, how to put them on without them pinging off mid-stride, and — importantly — when they are the wrong tool for the job.

What are ice grips, and are they crampons?

Ice grips are a lightweight traction aid that slips over the sole of your normal shoe or boot. A rubber or silicone harness wraps the toe and heel, and a row of short steel spikes (usually 8–18 mm long) under the forefoot bites into ice and hard-packed snow. They are designed for walking on icy surfaces — pavements, resort paths, frozen fields, the short approach to a ski lift — not for steep ground.

They are sometimes called "shoe crampons", but that name is misleading. Real mountaineering crampons are rigid metal frames with 10–14 longer spikes, strapped to stiff B2/B3 boots with binding systems, and rated for steep snow and ice climbing. The British Mountaineering Council groups these products as "micro-spikes" — a separate category from technical crampons. The difference matters because micro-spikes will not hold on steep ice, and confusing the two can get someone hurt on a mountainside. On flat or gently sloping ice, however, micro-spikes are exactly the right tool and far more convenient than full crampons.

When you need them (and when you do not)

Ice grips earn their place in three situations:

  • Icy resort paths and car parks. The short walk from the car to the lift, or back to the chalet at the end of the day, is where most recreational skiers and snowboarders slip. A pair in your jacket pocket means you do not have to shuffle like a penguin across black ice.
  • Winter walks on compacted snow. Popular lowland and forest trails after a freeze turn into polished ice sheets. Micro-spikes turn a treacherous shuffle into a normal walk.
  • Older or less steady walkers. Anyone whose balance is not what it was, or who is carrying a child or heavy pack, benefits from the extra margin — the NHS winter health guidance flags slips and falls as a leading cause of winter injuries, especially among older adults.

They are not for:

  • Steep slopes or gullies — use technical crampons and an ice axe, with training.
  • Indoor floors or polished stone — the metal spikes scratch and can slip on hard, smooth, non-icy surfaces; take them off inside.
  • Driving — never drive with them on; the spikes will not grip a pedal properly and can damage pedals.
A 10-tooth rubber-harness ice grip and a 12-tooth model laid side by side on a snowy surface, showing spike count and harness difference

10-tooth vs 12-tooth: how many spikes?

Spike count is the first number on any listing. More spikes is not automatically better — it is about how the spikes are distributed.

Type Spikes Best for
10-tooth 10 spikes under forefoot and heel Everyday winter walking, resort paths, moderate ice — the versatile default
12-tooth 12 spikes, often with extra heel coverage Thicker ice, longer walks, heavier body weight or packs — more bite at the cost of slightly more weight

For most people a 10-tooth pair is plenty. The 12-tooth models come into their own when the ice is thick and glassy, when you are carrying a heavy pack or ski boots over your shoulder, or when you simply want the extra confidence. The 10-tooth model is the everyday pick; the 12-tooth version is the better choice for frequent use on hard ice.

Rubber harness vs chain-style

Two construction styles dominate. Choose by how often you will use them and how cold it gets.

Rubber / silicone harness

The type shown above: a single rubber band that stretches over toe and heel, holding the spike plate under the foot. Pros: cheap, light, quick to put on, fits most shoe shapes. Cons: rubber perishes after a season or two of UV and ozone exposure; very cold temperatures can make the rubber stiff and more likely to tear. This is the style of the two products linked above.

Chain-style

A web of steel chain across the sole, held on by rubber straps. Pros: extremely durable, works across a wider temperature range, no rubber to perish. Cons: heavier, noisier on hard ground, takes longer to fit. Best for frequent use or commercial/industrial winter work.

How to choose the right pair

  1. Match to your footwear size. Most models are sold in size ranges (S/M/L). Check the sizing chart against your shoe size — a harness that is too loose pops off; one that is too tight tears.
  2. Spike length. 8–12 mm is the sweet spot for walking on ice. Longer spikes (15 mm+) catch on uneven ground and are more likely to trip you on bare pavement.
  3. Spike material. Look for stainless or hardened steel spikes. Plain steel rusts after a few wet outings; stainless lasts years.
  4. Harness thickness. A thicker rubber band resists tearing better than a thin one, at the cost of a little stretch.
  5. Heel coverage. Models with spikes under the heel as well as the forefoot are safer on descents, where most slips happen.
Step-by-step fitting: a person pulling the rubber harness of ice grips over the toe and heel of a winter boot, on a snowy porch

How to put them on and use them safely

Most "ice grips fell off" stories are a fit problem, not a product failure.

  1. Toe first. Stretch the front loop over the toe of your boot so it sits just behind the toe cap, then pull the heel loop up and over the heel.
  2. Centre the plate. The spike plate should sit under the ball of your foot, not skewed to one side. Give it a wiggle to seat it.
  3. Test on a step. Stamp your foot a couple of times before walking. If the harness rides up, the fit is too loose — try a smaller size or a tighter pull.
  4. Lift your feet slightly. A normal walking stride works; the spikes clear the ice on the swing phase. Do not shuffle — that is how the toe catches.
  5. Take them off indoors. Spikes on tile or wood scratch the floor and are more slippery than your shoes alone on non-icy hard surfaces.

Care, lifespan and storage

  • Rinse after each use. Salt from gritted paths and meltwater corrode even stainless spikes. A quick rinse in warm water and a dry-off keeps them sharp.
  • Store dry and loose. Do not crumple them into a ball in a wet pocket — the rubber gets memory-set and the spikes tangle. Hang them or lay them flat once dry.
  • Check the rubber yearly. If the harness shows cracks, feels sticky, or tears easily, replace it. A failed harness on ice is worse than no grips.
  • Sharpen or replace spikes. After a season of grit, the spikes blunt. Replaceable-spike models can be refreshed; cheap one-piece models are usually cheaper to replace than to service.

Round out your winter walk kit

Ice grips solve the traction problem, but the rest of the system matters too. Pair them with warm, waterproof ski socks under your boots, a thermal base layer for the walk up, and waterproof ski gloves so your hands are free and warm when you bend to fit the grips. For longer winter walks, a ski helmet is overkill, but a hat and the right jacket are not.

FAQ

Are ice grips the same as crampons?

No. Ice grips (micro-spikes) are flexible rubber-harness aids for walking on flat ice. Mountaineering crampons are rigid metal frames for steep snow and ice, requiring stiff boots and training. The BMC classifies them as separate categories.

Can I wear ice grips while driving?

No. Take them off before driving. The metal spikes do not grip pedals properly and can slip off at the wrong moment; they also scratch pedals and floor mats.

How many spikes do I need?

10 teeth is the everyday default for resort paths and winter walks. 12 teeth give extra bite on thick, glassy ice or when carrying weight. For most people 10 is enough.

Do ice grips work on all shoes?

They work best on walking shoes and boots with a defined heel. Very flat-soled shoes or flexible trainers can let the harness ride forward. Boots with a heel notch hold the rear loop most securely.

How long do they last?

A rubber-harness pair typically lasts one to two seasons of regular use before the rubber perishes. Stainless steel spikes will outlast the harness. Chain-style models last several seasons.

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