Snowboarding puts your head closer to the ground than skiing does — a catch on the toe edge or a slam in the park, and your head is the first thing to arrive. A snowboard helmet is the single piece of protective kit with the clearest return, and unlike almost everything else in snow sports, it isn't a matter of taste: it's a matter of what standard it meets.

This guide covers what the EN 1077 classes actually mean, how construction affects protection, why MIPS exists, and how to get a fit that stays put at speed.

Table of Contents

Why a Helmet, and What It Can't Do

A helmet is designed to absorb and spread the energy of a single impact to the head, and it does that job well. What it does not do is make you invincible: helmets are not designed for repeated impacts, they don't protect your neck or spine, and — the point most often forgotten — wearing one is not a licence to ride faster. Most resorts now require helmets for children in lessons and race programmes, and a growing number require them for all riders in terrain parks.

EN 1077: Class A vs Class B

In Europe, snow sports helmets are tested to EN 1077, the European standard for helmets for alpine skiers and snowboarders. It sets out tests for construction and field of vision, shock absorption, penetration resistance, and the strength of the retention system — the strap that keeps the helmet on your head when it matters.

EN 1077 defines two classes, and the difference is the one thing to understand before you buy:

Class Coverage Typically
Class A Covers the ears as well as the top and back of the head Ski helmets, and any helmet where ear protection is built in
Class B Does not cover the ears Many snowboard helmets, where riders often want more ventilation and a lighter feel

Class B isn't "worse" — it's a different trade-off. The standard allows Class B helmets to be more ventilated and less enclosing, which is why a lot of snowboard helmets sit in Class B. If you ride in very cold conditions or want the ears covered by the shell itself, Class A is the choice. Either way, look for the EN 1077 marking on the inside of the helmet: without it, you're buying a fashion item, not a certified protector.

Interior of a snowboard helmet showing the EPS foam liner, adjustable retention dial at the back and the EN 1077 certification label
The certification label inside the shell is what separates a protector from a hat.

In-Mould vs Hard Shell

  • In-mould construction bonds the outer polycarbonate shell directly to the foam liner. The result is lighter, better ventilated and lower profile — the modern default for most riders.
  • Hard shell (ABS) construction uses a separate, thicker outer shell over the foam. It's heavier and bulkier, but more resistant to dents and scuffs from repeated knocks — which is why it's popular in rental fleets and terrain parks.

For most snowboarders, in-mould is the better everyday choice: lighter on the neck, cooler on the climb, and plenty strong for a certified helmet. Hard shell makes sense if the helmet will take a lot of abuse.

MIPS and Rotational Impact

A straight drop onto the top of the head is the easy case to design for. The harder problem is rotational impact — the angled hit that twists the head as it lands, which is where a great many real-world falls end up. MIPS (Multi-directional Impact Protection System) is a low-friction layer inside the helmet that allows the shell to slide slightly relative to your head during an angled impact, reducing the rotational force transferred to the brain.

MIPS is not a replacement for a certified helmet — it's an additional system layered on top of one. If you ride park, race or just want the extra margin, a MIPS-equipped helmet is worth the premium. If you're a cautious piste cruiser, a well-fitting certified helmet without it is still a genuine improvement on no helmet at all.

Fit and Sizing

Fit decides how much protection you actually get, because a helmet that shifts on impact isn't doing its job. The rules:

  • Measure your head circumference around the widest point, roughly an inch above the eyebrows and around the back of the skull. Buy to that number — sizes are in centimetres (a common adult range is 54–61cm).
  • The helmet should sit level, covering the top of the forehead — not pushed back like a beanie, which leaves the front of the skull exposed.
  • It should be snug all round with no pressure points. A helmet that's too loose rocks; one that's too tight gives you a headache by lunchtime.
  • Use the retention dial at the back to fine-tune, and adjust the chin strap so you can fit two fingers under it — no more, no less.
  • Shake test: with the strap done up, tip your head forward and shake. If the helmet moves independently of your scalp, it's too loose.

Women and men are usually offered the same shell with different padding and sizing ranges rather than a genuinely different shape — so buy on circumference, not on the label.

Snowboarder adjusting the chin strap and rear retention dial of a helmet, goggles worn over the shell, snowy mountain background
Level on the forehead, snug all round, strap set to two fingers — the fit check takes ten seconds.

Ventilation, Ear Pads and Goggles

  • Adjustable vents let you open the airflow on a warm spring day and close it on a cold lift ride. On a snowboard helmet this matters more than on a ski helmet, because you generate heat hiking and park laps.
  • Removable ear pads give you options in spring; fixed pads are simpler and warmer.
  • Goggle compatibility is the detail people forget. Your goggles should sit flush against the helmet's brim with no gap between goggle frame and helmet — a gap funnels cold air onto your forehead and fogs the lens. Take your goggles when you try a helmet on. For the goggles side of that fit, see our children's ski goggles guide.
  • Weight — under about 500g keeps the neck happy on long days; in-mould shells get you there most easily.

When to Replace a Helmet

A helmet is single-use protection. Replace it if:

  • It has taken a significant impact — even if there's no visible damage. The foam liner crushes to absorb energy and does not spring back.
  • The shell is cracked, dented or the foam is visibly compressed.
  • The retention system or straps are frayed or damaged — a helmet that can't stay on isn't protecting anything.
  • It's very old. Foam and adhesives degrade over time; most manufacturers suggest replacing a helmet roughly every five years of use regardless of knocks.

Never buy a second-hand helmet unless you know its full history. A helmet that's already absorbed one impact looks fine and offers almost nothing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a different helmet for snowboarding and skiing?

No — EN 1077 covers both alpine skiers and snowboarders in one standard. Snowboard helmets are often Class B with more ventilation, but a certified ski helmet is equally valid on a board.

Can I wear a beanie under my helmet?

Only a very thin one, and only if the helmet still fits snugly. A thick hat lifts the helmet off your head and stops the shell sitting where it should, which compromises protection.

Is MIPS worth paying more for?

It adds a genuine layer of protection against rotational impact, so yes if the budget allows — but a well-fitting certified helmet without MIPS beats a badly fitting one with it, every time.

How do I know my helmet is certified?

Look for the EN 1077 marking and class on the label inside the shell. If there's no EN 1077 marking, it isn't a certified snow sports helmet.

Shop Ski & Snowboard Gear

A helmet pairs with the rest of your protective kit — ski gloves for your hands and children's ski mittens for smaller riders. Layering underneath matters too: see our ski base layer guide and ski socks guide.

Browse ski & snowboard gear at Desvips, or read more in our Ski & Snowboard articles.